Mageia 2.
I generally don't run Gnome (I have fvwm2, a manually edited .fvwm2rc, and a basic .xinitrc which just runs it). However, I have all of these same problems, including all greyed-out and permissions problems, if I move aside my .fvrm2rc and .xinitrc and start Gnome.
Trying to run dconf-editor as myself shows me only a few keys. For instance, I am trying to change the default file chooser sort method. The org/gtk/settings/file-chooser is not there. Any key that is there is uneditable; for instance, there is an org/gtk/Demo string key set to "red", but trying to pick "blue" or "green" just leaves it set to "red". Also the "set to default" button is greyed out.
I do have a /home/arromdee/.config/dconf/user file but it makes no difference whatsoever.
If I try running dconf-editor as root, more keys are available, including the org/gtk/settings/file-chooser I am looking for, and the "set to default" button is not greyed. However, I still can't change any settings.
Googling suggested that I might be able to change something in /etc/dconf. I went to /etc/dconf/db/gdm.d, copied 00-upstream-settings to 01-upstream-settings and set all "disable" items to "false". I also deleted all "disable" locks from /etc/dconf/db/gdm.d/locks and ran dconf update. No difference; I am still unable to edit anything.
The dconf service does appear to be running. Killing it and letting it restart doesn't help either.
I also tried editing some settings directly with dconf. "dconf dump / > foo" gave me settings in the file 'foo'. However, trying to edit the file and use "dconf load / < foo" doesn't work. First of all, it produces the error message "error: The connection is closed". Second, anything I change isn't there when I do a second dconf dump.
I don't know who decided that Linux should get the Windows registry, only worse, but this is incredibly confusing. Does anyone have any idea what is going on? Is anyone else even able to run dconf-editor and change things?